Oval, barrel and egg-shaped, the first ‘clock-watches’ originally hung on clothing or were worn as pendants. They were large, a cross between a clock and a watch, and they only had an hour hand on their faces, much like a sundial.

The two-handed face, including both an hour and a minute hand, evolved later when the technology was invented to allow precise measurements and movements of each piece.

The first pendant watches were manufactured in Europe in the 16th century with their movements made of iron or steel, and Switzerland became an early center of world-class watch-making. In 1601, the first professional society for watchmakers was created there: the Watchmakers’ Guild of Geneva; and by the 1700s, Switzerland was world-renown for its exceptional watches and time-keeping technology.

- Photo © GIA and Tino Hammid, courtesy Mona Nesseth and Michelle Laurenti

Evolving from pendant watches, these were designed to fit snugly into pockets.

Around 1675 when waistcoats became popular with men, timepieces were retooled to fit into the small pockets of these more fashionable waistcoats. This meant that the old-fashioned drum-shaped pendant watch-clock needed to be made flatter and rounded with no edges. Glass was added in order to cover and protect the flat watch face as it slid in and out of pockets.

A chain was also adhered to the watch to allow it to connect to the wearer’s clothing so that it would not be dropped as it was pulled out of pockets. This style of watch remained popular until the 1920s when the wristwatch became the preferred timepiece among men.

- Photo by Tino Hammid/GIA

They were originally only for women: in 1868, a Swiss watchmaker invented the first modern wristwatch, and its sleek, dainty design was thought to be something suited for a woman’s wrist.

Twenty years later, a French jeweler added diamonds and gold bracelets to make them more luxurious for the ladies. Then in 1904, this same French jewelry house was asked to design the first man’s wristwatch – it was made for a pilot who wanted an easy way to time his flights while keeping both hands on the plane’s controls. Despite this practical use of a timepiece, most men continued to use the bulkier pocket watch.

And although German naval officers had already adopted wristwatches as essential tools while at sea, it wasn’t until WWI that American soldiers found the wristwatch (then called a ‘trench watch’) to be convenient while on the battlefield and in the trenches. It wasn’t until the end of WWI that the wristwatch became an accepted part of any man’s wardrobe.

Today, modern wristwatches are sleek and elegant, and both men and women often wear them as status symbols.

- Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy Craig Selimotic Danforth

Today, the technology has advanced so far as to allow watch faces to be made in small sizes and to function well on their own. This versatility enables jewelers to incorporate watch faces into many of their creations.

In the late twentieth century, many bangle bracelets, pendants, and even rings were set with watch faces. Some of these faces were cleverly hidden behind discreet covers, doors, or links of chains that blended in with the rest of the piece. Because of this, many watch faces were considered to be in secret compartments. Oftentimes, only the jeweler and the wearer realized that the jewelry functioned as both decoration and a timepiece.